Burberry stood at a crossroads. The years under Christopher Bailey, while not entirely unsuccessful, had seen a period of declining sales and a brand identity that, while attempting to evolve, had arguably lost some of its core essence. The iconic check, a symbol synonymous with British heritage and luxury, had been deliberately sidelined, a strategic decision that ultimately proved controversial. The arrival of Riccardo Tisci as Chief Creative Officer in 2018 marked a pivotal moment, a chance to re-evaluate, reimagine, and ultimately reinvent the Burberry brand. Spring/Summer 2019 was the first major collection unveiled under Tisci’s leadership, a bold statement of intent that aimed to recapture the brand's heritage while simultaneously forging a new, contemporary path. This collection wasn't just about clothes; it was a complete overhaul of the brand's image, a calculated risk that ultimately paid off, signaling a powerful return to form and a fresh chapter in Burberry's long and storied history.
The challenge facing Tisci was immense. He had to navigate a complex legacy, balancing the expectations of loyal customers with the demands of a constantly evolving fashion landscape. The deliberate avoidance of the check under Bailey's tenure, while intended to modernize the brand, had inadvertently alienated a significant portion of its customer base. This wasn't a simple matter of reintroducing the print; it required a thoughtful recontextualization, a way to make the check feel relevant and exciting for a new generation while still respecting its rich history. Tisci understood this nuance, and his SS19 collection demonstrated a masterful understanding of both the brand's past and its future potential.
Burberry Signatures for Men: A Modern Heritage
Tisci's vision for Burberry men's SS19 was one of refined masculinity, a sophisticated blend of classic tailoring and contemporary streetwear influences. The collection showcased a clear understanding of the modern man, his diverse tastes, and his desire for clothing that is both stylish and functional. While the collection moved away from the overly romanticized, almost whimsical aesthetic of previous seasons, it retained a sense of Britishness, albeit a more grounded and less overtly nostalgic one.
The iconic Burberry check made a triumphant return, but not in the predictable way. Tisci cleverly integrated the pattern into the collection, using it as an accent rather than a dominant feature. He incorporated it into linings, subtly peeking out from under jackets or adorning the interior of bags. This strategic use of the check demonstrated a respect for its heritage while preventing it from feeling dated or overly repetitive.
Instead of relying solely on the check, Tisci introduced a new signature motif: a graphic reimagining of the Thomas Burberry monogram. This bold, contemporary design was woven into fabrics, printed on t-shirts, and used as a subtle embellishment on outerwear. This monogram served as a visual representation of the brand's evolution, a symbol of its renewed energy and forward-thinking approach.
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